Creating the Ideal Enclosure for your Chelonian

   There’s no such thing as "a one type fits all’ enclosure as each species will have different requirements. Some prefer the warm sun, others prefer shade similar to the rain forest, some like to climb while others like to burrow. There are, however, a few general guidelines I can offer which you can then adapt as necessary. I have kept hundreds of tortoises of many different species and have learned what works and what doesn’t work on my property by trial and error. Here are some of the tried and true rules that have worked for me over the years.

FENCES AND WALLS:

• If a tortoise can see through a border he will try to get through it. So…ensure that all perimeters are solid and a minimum 18” high.

• Square corners just invite attempts to “chimney up” them and escape. It’s better to have continuous fencing with slightly curved or rounded “corners” to prevent escapes. My husband constructed and attached triangle planters in each of my enclosure corners. Works great planted with edibles spilling over into the pen. Since many species are adept and eager to burrow, it’s best practice to bury a barrier 6”-12” below the fencing to thwart these efforts. NEVER rely on temporary pens as this almost always results in successful escapes. Tortoises are very resourceful and determined when challenged. If there’s a will there’s a way! Russian tortoises are escape experts so be prepared. Sulcatas are very strong and can easily plow through flimsy fencing.

SUBSTRATES:

• Use an appropriate substrate for the species you are housing. Never use cedar shavings as the fumes are toxic! Desert tortoises will benefit from a sandy, well-drained substrate while many tropical species (Redfoot's, box turtles) prefer moist leaf litter, loose dirt, peat moss and crushed orchid bark. Clumps of fountain grass allows a place for the tortoise to nestle in and provide a sense of security and shade. Provide all egg laying females with suitable raised nesting sites. NOTE: No tortoise or turtle does well on concrete or gravel. Too rough on their plastron and contradictory to their natural habitat.

DESIGN:

• Try to make all pens interesting and attractive, complimenting your landscape. The old style wooden pen on a grass lawn isn’t the best option. Contoured outlines with plenty of internal roaming space, alternative access to basking spots and shade retreats with a variety of places to climb are all indicators of a good pen design. Add a red Jolly ball in there for entertainment.

• Create an island of interesting vegetation in the middle. This will distract attention from the perimeters and lessen the frequency of escape attempts. Consider planting a mulberry tree, grape vines, nasturtiums, red hibiscus, California poppies, succulents, and spineless cactus right outside their enclosure but close enough for shade and nibbling.

• If at all possible provide slopes in all pens. These greatly encourage basking, nesting, and are much closer to the typical natural habitat of most species.

• Pens for juveniles and smaller species MUST be predator proof. Predatory mammals and birds can and will attack small tortoises-usually with fatal results. Secure the top of the pen with wire mesh and ensure the perimeters are free of rodent or other burrows and check frequently.

• Provide juvenile pens with low growing edible vegetation such as gazanias, clovers, violas, lettuces, etc. This provides leg holds in case the tortoise falls on their back and helps them to right themselves. Planting edibles also encourages their natural instinct to graze and search for a food source.

• Watch for and protect all pens from ants. I’ve had best results using Optigard Ant Gel Bait. Place the gel out of reach of your tortoise. The gel attracts the ants which then carry it back to their nest and destroys the queen.

• Check all pens regularly in hot weather. A tortoise can quickly overheat and dehydrate if he flips onto his back and is unable to turn himself back over.

• Consider installing misters inside the enclosure to provide humidity during those hot summer Southern California days. A large water saucer (3”-4” deep) should be provided for drinking, full body soaking, and eliminating. 

• Ensure that all pens are free of toxic plants and ideally planted with edibles.  Both plant lists are available on this website. 

• All pens need to be of adequate size, the bigger the better for long term occupancy. A minimum 15’x15’ for desert tortoises and others of similar size. Sulcatas require a minimum 20’x30’ area.

With good design and careful construction, pens can provide an interesting and biologically suitable environment for most species. There’s no reason for pens to be boring, unsecured or inadequate. A really good pen will provide everything your tortoise or turtle needs throughout the year and prove to be an attractive addition to any yard.