Pyramding: Cause and Effect

   What is “pyramiding”? This is probably the most frequently asked question received by those that are “knowledgeable” on tortoise care. So, let’s try to clear this up by giving you a somewhat simplified answer based on the research I’ve been able to collect.

Pyramiding is the excessive upward growth of the scutes (the individual segments that make up the tortoise's carapace or shell) that results in each segment taking on a pyramid-like shape. This malady is a form of metabolic bone disease. Less severe cases usually aren’t a problem unless dietary deficiencies are also a factor. However, severe cases inhibit lung function causing weakness or paralysis of their limbs, arthritis, nail problems, shell deformity, and in some unfortunate cases, a slow death. The condition usually occurs in the first 2-4 years of life. If the tortoise’s basic needs are not being met then the scutes begin growing vertically instead of horizontally resulting in the “pyramids”. This condition is rarely, if ever, found in the wild and is not treatable or reversible. Optimal shell growth should be smooth and domed.

Pyramiding is caused by any, or all, of the following conditions:

*Low humidity in the first years of life.

*Lack of, or insufficient sun/UV ray exposure: Glass blocks the critically needed UVB rays.

*Sedentary life: Not enough exercise, too small of an enclosure.

*Inadequate diet: Overfeeding, lack of fiber, grain-based diet, too much protein, low calcium/Vitamin D, inadequate ratio of calcium to phosphorus.

*Disease of the thyroid or parathyroid glands.

Now the good news…Pyramiding is preventable! Just follow these easy guidelines:

1. Humidity: All turtles and tortoises require high humidity during the first 3 years of their life. Hatchlings and yearlings should have access to a water dish about 1” deep and have daily soakings. Adult chelonians should always have access to clean water and a soaking dish 2’-3” deep. Sphagnum moss and cypress mulch are good substrates as it retains moisture but inhibits mold and fungi.
2. Sun Exposure: Chelonians do best in an outdoor enclosure with access to direct sun and shade. Create a 4’x4’ or 5’x5’ outdoor enclosure for your little ones with a wire mesh covering the top for protection from predators. Plant with gazanias, grasses, clover and/or California poppies for edible shade. Bring in at night to a warm appropriate enclosure or terrarium. Adult and sub-adult tortoises should be kept outdoors 24/7 in an enclosure appropriate for their size with a secure, insulated tortoise house. Again, with access to sun and shade. Ideal temperatures are considered to be 80-90 degrees which increases activity and digestion.
3. Enclosure Size: The tortoise enclosure should be in proportion to their size allowing them plenty of room to graze and explore to their hearts, and legs content. Medium size tortoises require a minimum 15’x15’ area, smaller species 10’x10’ and sulcatas or larger species, 30’x30’ minimum.
4. Diet: Provide a well-balanced diet high in fiber like grass, weeds, flowers, cactus, Timothy and/or Bermuda hay, calcium fortified foods such as mulberry leaves, dandelions, and cuttle bones which are low in proteins and fats. Mazuri pellets are the only commercial food product that I endorse since it’s a great source of fiber and essential vitamins and nutrients. Protein in and of itself isn’t considered detrimental. However, phosphorus is primarily found in protein.  Too much phosphorus binds the absorption of calcium as does spinach, kale, and broccoli.

Now that the information is out there, please take a minute to assess how to create a healthier environment for these wonderful creatures that will be with us for many years to come.