Sulcata Tortoise Care Information

 The sulcata tortoise does best in a large grassy or weeded area (not concrete or gravel) with regular access to clean water.  A shallow 30” or larger plant saucer  works well for their hydration needs. This species of tortoise does not hibernate and cannot tolerate cold or damp weather. Even in Southern California, an outdoor heated hous

 The sulcata tortoise does best in a large grassy or weeded area (not concrete or gravel) with regular access to clean water.  A shallow 30” or larger plant saucer  works well for their hydration needs. This species of tortoise does not hibernate and cannot tolerate cold or damp weather. Even in Southern California, an outdoor heated house should provide consistent heat (minimum 70 degrees at night, 85 during the day). These tortoises have tremendous strength and can also be very effective diggers. Although sulcatas rarely dig to escape, they can dig some serious tunnels seeking protection, warmth, or to cool off.  Because of the size, strength, and occasional aggressiveness of sulcatas, children should always be supervised in their presence.

These tortoises do not intentionally bite people, but if feeding them by hand make sure to keep your fingers at a safe distance since they’ll look pretty tasty next to that carrot you’re feeding him. Tortoise buyers sometimes make their purchases without understanding what it takes to care for a sulcata and without realizing how quickly they grow. 

Unfortunately, when the size and strength of this species becomes apparent, many people are either unable or unwilling to continue to care for them. As a result, they attempt to donate them to zoos, which won’t take them or release them back into the “wild” which is illegal. Before acquiring any size tortoise please be aware that this is a long-term commitment and they can be difficult to rehome.  

 It is important to understand that all tortoises should spend most of their lives outdoors with easy access to natural sunlight. Tortoises should never be raised in a glass tank! In addition, all tortoises should be provided with adequate shade to escape the hot sun and should also have access to fresh water on a daily basis. Sulcatas, p

 It is important to understand that all tortoises should spend most of their lives outdoors with easy access to natural sunlight. Tortoises should never be raised in a glass tank! In addition, all tortoises should be provided with adequate shade to escape the hot sun and should also have access to fresh water on a daily basis. Sulcatas, particularly males, can be very aggressive to one another when sharing an enclosure. Males should rarely if ever be kept together once they’ve reached puberty (5-7 years old). It creates significant stress for the less dominant tortoise.  

Your sulcata should be provided with a large, grassy outdoor yard free of pesticides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers. This area must be securely enclosed. Remember, these tortoises have great strength and can easily push through a flimsy chain-link fence. A wall or other sturdy, permanent solid fencing material (at least 18” high) i

Your sulcata should be provided with a large, grassy outdoor yard free of pesticides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers. This area must be securely enclosed. Remember, these tortoises have great strength and can easily push through a flimsy chain-link fence. A wall or other sturdy, permanent solid fencing material (at least 18” high) is recommended. If they can see out they will try to get out. Sulcatas have also been known to excavate a large tunnel in a  very short period of time, so your enclosure should include a barricade that extends approximately six inches or more into the ground below the fence. Be sure to include a shady area within your enclosure. Mulberry tree, grape vines, spineless cactus, weeds, and red hibiscus are great edible options

Sulcatas cannot tolerate damp or cold weather. They must be provided with a dry, heated house. There are a variety of suitable housing designs to consider. These include modifying an extra large Dogloo or similar molded plastic dog house to fit your tortoise’s needs, or constructing what is best described as a moderately sized playhouse,

Sulcatas cannot tolerate damp or cold weather. They must be provided with a dry, heated house. There are a variety of suitable housing designs to consider. These include modifying an extra large Dogloo or similar molded plastic dog house to fit your tortoise’s needs, or constructing what is best described as a moderately sized playhouse, complete with linoleum flooring and an asphalt-shingled roof. The structure must be designed to ensure that no moisture can collect within the housing. To maintain a warm temperature within the house, a very heavy piece of plastic (freezer strips) or rubber matting that has been cut from the bottom into strips can be installed over the entry way. 

Sulcatas can be messy; therefore, your housing must be easy to clean as well.  Consider a hinged roof and a 24”x24” entryway/opening.

When designing your Sulcata house, remember to plan for the future. A 20-pound Sulcata will eventually grow to a 150+ pound animal, and will need more room in the house to move around. Be sure to leave plenty of room for the tortoise to bask under your heat source and to be able to move away from it.

Akoma Hound Heaters have proven to be safe and reliable. The heat source must be placed at least 12 inches from the top of the tortoise’s shell.  The Tortoise Trust recommends that the house be kept at a range of between 72° F and 88°F. The use of a thermostat is recommended to better regulate the temperature inside the house. Providing basking heat for your tortoise will ensure normal activity and feeding, particularly during the winter months. Be aware that UV bulbs available in stores and online, are only effective for a maximum 3 months with regular use.

Some Sulcata owners use a pig blanket/reptile heat pad to keep their tortoise warm. Because Sulcatas in the wild use the radiant heat of the sun to thermo regulate, an overhead heat source is often recommended rather than a pig blanket.

Most Sulcatas will find their way into their houses before nightfall, but it is recommended that you always check your tortoise at night to be certain that it is inside its house. Tortoises that are permitted to sleep in damp conditions can develop upper respiratory disease.

During the juvenile stage of your tortoise’s life, you must be willing to accommodate your tortoise within your home. It cannot be left outside at night or during periods of inclement weather. Predators, cool temperatures, and dampness, even in Southern California, are all threats to your young tortoise’s health and well-being. Your young Sulcata needs the security and added heat provided within your home, or a well made, secure tortoise house, not a poorly insulated garage or enclosed porch.

Like many tortoises, sulcata juveniles do not do well in an enclosed terrarium. It is recommended that you use an open-topped enclosure that provides both security and a well-ventilated environment. You can build a wooden box with 6 to 8-inch sides and line the bottom with linoleum, or use a sweater box for a very small tortoise. Line the bottom of your enclosure with paper towels, newspaper, or puppy pads. These are inexpensive and easy to replace. Pellets are not recommended because they make normal walking difficult for a baby tortoise. Indoor/outdoor carpeting is also discouraged because young tortoises catch their toenails in the fibers, which also can make walking difficult. Under no circumstances should you place sand in your enclosure as sand is easily ingested and can result in serious health problems. 

 
In addition to an enclosure you will need a securely mounted heat lamp, UVB lighting, timers, a hide box, a water dish and a relatively flat food dish. As your tortoise grows, so must your indoor enclosure. A small tortoise can quickly outgrow its hide box, water dish, and eventually its original enclosure. Once again, always be sure that your enclosure has both a basking area and a cool area. This will allow your Sulcata to regulate its own body temperature.
Most importantly, when the weather outside is warm and sunny, move your young Sulcata to its outside enclosure. Natural sunlight is essential to your tortoise’s long-term health.

Smaller tortoises are easy prey for raccoons, coyotes, and rodents and should be protected from these predators accordingly.

In captivity, sulcatas require a very high fiber diet. A lack of fiber can result in digestive tract disturbances, diarrhea, and can increase susceptibility to flagellence and worm problems. The frequent feeding of fruit will result in similar problems. Fruit, if given at all, should only be an occasional treat. A grassy area within the 

In captivity, sulcatas require a very high fiber diet. A lack of fiber can result in digestive tract disturbances, diarrhea, and can increase susceptibility to flagellence and worm problems. The frequent feeding of fruit will result in similar problems. Fruit, if given at all, should only be an occasional treat. A grassy area within the enclosure is best, as it will provide a good source of fiber for your sulcata.

Grasses and hays are a critical component of the Sulcata’s diet. Experts recommend that mixed grasses comprise 70–75% of your Sulcata’s diet. The following grasses are considered suitable fodder grasses: buffalo grass, Bermuda grass, bluegrass, Darnel rye grass, western wheat grass, blue grama grass, and a variety of Fescue sp. Bermuda or Timothy grass hay (not alfalfa hay) can also be provided. This grass-based diet should be supplemented with flowers as frequently as possible. Edible flowers and weeds that should be included in a regular diet include: hibiscus flowers and leaves, wild dandelion flowers and leaves, roses, petunia, viola, thistle, chickweed, stinging nettle, opuntia cactus, plantain and clover. Be sure all flowers and weeds are free of pesticides and herbicides, and avoid picking plants from roadside areas or parks where plants are routinely subjected to vehicle exhaust and chemical spraying. Grocery store produce should represent only a very small part of your sulcata’s total diet. Acceptable produce includes chicory, dandelion greens, collard greens, endive, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, shredded carrots and pumpkin.

Although sulcatas will eat animal protein, DO NOT feed them anything containing animal protein, as it will cause carapace deformity. It should also be noted that excessive quantities of beans, bean sprouts, peas and similar vegetables rich in protein can lead to scute pyramiding. A high protein diet will also cause rapid growth, kidney failure and a shortened life span.  Vegetables such as broccoli, Brussel sprouts, kale and cabbage can lead to goiter and hypothyroidism and should be avoided or provided only on rare occasions. Greens high in calcium oxalate such as parsley, broccoli, kale, and spinach can bind calcium, which could lead to metabolic bone disease. These greens should be avoided. Collards also contain calcium oxalate and therefore if provided should be done so in very limited quantities.

The ideal sulcata diet should be: high in fiber; low in fats, oils and protein; and rich in minerals, trace elements and vitamins. Mazuri pellets for tortoises also provide these essential nutrients. Another essential component of your daily feeding routine is the provision of clean water. A combination wallow and water dish should be provided even though your tortoise may seldom drink from it. A large (30”) plastic plant saucer set into the ground works well for this purpose.

The dish should be cleaned frequently and the water replaced daily. In addition, juvenile and sub-adult Sulcatas should be soaked weekly to ensure adequate hydration. Use a container large enough to accommodate the tortoise, add tepid (not hot) water that is no deeper than is necessary to cover the edge of the carapace. Allow your tortoise to soak for 15 to 20 minutes. Tortoises will generally take advantage of this time to replace their water stores, voiding the old, and replacing it with fresh.  For a very large tortoise, you may need to insert the container into the ground and encourage it to enter the water for several minutes.

 Tortoises that graze outdoors and have a healthy diet do not require great amounts of vitamin and/or mineral supplements. In fact, A.C. Highfield, in his book, The Tortoise and Turtle Feeding Manual (2000), states, “There is a great deal of misunderstanding concerning the role of vitamins and minerals. Many people believe that the more y

 Tortoises that graze outdoors and have a healthy diet do not require great amounts of vitamin and/or mineral supplements. In fact, A.C. Highfield, in his book, The Tortoise and Turtle Feeding Manual (2000), states, “There is a great deal of misunderstanding concerning the role of vitamins and minerals. Many people believe that the more you give the better – this is categorically not true, indeed, some vitamins and minerals can be positively dangerous if taken in excess.” Highfield recommends that you provide your tortoise with as varied a diet as possible for optimal health. Tortoises need significant quantities of calcium, particularly as they are growing. Unfortunately, in the captive environment, it is difficult for them to obtain all the calcium they need from their diet alone. It is recommended that you occasionally sprinkle their food with a calcium supplement, preferably formulated for tortoises. The best supplements for tortoises are phosphorus-free, contain a wide range of trace elements, and are free of added amino acids (these supplements generally include vitamin D3 as well). Tortoises that are maintained outdoors throughout the year do not need D3 supplements. Finely ground egg shells, finely ground oyster shells or cuttlefish bones are a good sources of calcium. The need for extra calcium is especially high in females and hatchlings. 

Although sulcatas are a very hardy species, they can be susceptible to respiratory ailments if kept in cool, wet conditions. Some of the signs to watch for are a runny nose, bubbles from the nose, loss of appetite, gasping and lack of activity. These symptoms can also be signs of mouth rot, bladder stones, or parasites. These indications

Although sulcatas are a very hardy species, they can be susceptible to respiratory ailments if kept in cool, wet conditions. Some of the signs to watch for are a runny nose, bubbles from the nose, loss of appetite, gasping and lack of activity. These symptoms can also be signs of mouth rot, bladder stones, or parasites. These indications are warning signals that something very serious is wrong with your tortoise. Left untreated, the tortoise may die. An experienced vet specializing in  tortoise care should be consulted immediately.

Most rescues and responsible owners do not recommend the breeding of sulcatas due to the current overpopulation in captivity. Just one clutch can consist of 20-28 eggs, and a healthy female will lay up to four clutches a year. Please consider adopting as there are numerous rescues throughout California that have sulcatas in need of long 

Most rescues and responsible owners do not recommend the breeding of sulcatas due to the current overpopulation in captivity. Just one clutch can consist of 20-28 eggs, and a healthy female will lay up to four clutches a year. Please consider adopting as there are numerous rescues throughout California that have sulcatas in need of long term homes. This situation continues to get worse as more people decide that they no longer are able or willing to care for the tortoise that once fit in the palm of their hand. **An easy way to determine males from females is by their tale. Males have long thick tales that they tuck to the side. Females have short stubby tales.