Hibernate/Brumate

Brumation is a state of winter inactivity in cold-blooded reptiles and amphibians, while hibernation is a deep sleep in warm-blooded mammals. Key differences include: metabolic control (reptiles' metabolism slows due to cold, while mammals actively reduce theirs), body temperature regulation (mammals maintain some heat, but reptiles are at the mercy of their environment), and activity levels (brumating reptiles can have periods of wakefulness, whereas hibernating mammals remain in a deep sleep).

Autumn’s in the air with cooler temperatures, turning leaves, pumpkins, and the long awaited holidays on the horizon. Ahhhhh. But hold up…what tortoise owner doesn’t have some amount of anxiety contemplating how their tortoises will handle the chillier months of winter. Common concerns are:

Should they or shouldn’t they brumate? Which ones do and which ones don’t? Will they be ok if they don’t brumate?

Are they ok in the garage, a closet, or better off in the yard?

Why aren’t they going down when they usually do (November)?

Should I make sure they’re well fed and well hydrated before they brumate?

How do I know when they’re ready to come out of brumation (March)?

Well folks, sit back and enjoy reading what the experts say.

Brumating your turtle or tortoise is not a perfect science, especially since we live in such a warm part of the country. The breeds of tortoises that do require brumation do so for health reasons. Irregular brumation will adversely affect the tortoises’ health and lifespan. Mediterranean breeds such as box turtles, water turtles, desert tortoises, Russians, Greeks, and Hermann’s are biologically set to brumate from November thru March. It is unnatural for them to be awake and eating 365 days a year. Brumation is an essential part of their life cycle. For the most part, tropical tortoises such as leopards, sulcatas, radiateds, and redfoots should not brumate. As a general rule of thumb, Mediterranean tortoises do brumate, and tropical species don’t.

Monitor your tortoise closely as Fall approaches. Usually starting in late September or early October, as the nights begin to cool into the 60s, you will notice your outdoor tortoise becoming less active and a decreasing appetite. At this time, stop feeding your tortoise supplemental produce such as kale, collard greens, lettuces, etc. A small amount of grass ingested before brumation usually isn’t harmful, but a stomach full of food can be. Undigested foods left in the digestive tract will not be digested during brumation and will rot. Before brumation, it is essential to soak your tortoise often in a shallow soaking dish. This will help them to buildup water reserves and stimulate them to empty their bladder and bowels. Whenever possible, brumating them outdoors naturally is recommended. Garages can be noisy, and closets are usually too warm. Tortoises will not brumate unless the temperatures in the environment cue them to do so. When brumation outside is not an option, as a last resort, place your tortoise inside a sturdy box and keep him in a quiet part of the house or garage that stays between 40F-55F degrees. If it is much warmer, your tortoise may not be able to brumate properly and could become ill. If it drops much below 40 degrees, your tortoise runs the risk of damage from the cold temperatures.

A brumating tortoise should be checked periodically. A sleeping tortoise will usually respond if its foot is touched. If the tortoise should waken during a mid-winter warm spell, water may be offered, but DO NOT feed. As the weather cools again, encourage the tortoise to return to sleep. When the days begin to warm, the tortoise will become active in its storage box around March or April. At this time, a warm bath should be given, and the tortoise will often take a long steady drink. Now it’s time to put him in his outside habitat. Within a week or two, he should resume his normal eating, exercising, and basking activity. You cannot trick Mother Nature without consequences. If your Mediterranean tortoise is awake every winter, the increased food intake can lead to abnormal growth and, in turn, cause Metabolic Bone Disease, lumpy shells, and sometimes even kidney and bladder stones.

The positives of brumation far out-weigh the negatives!

BE AWARE….Brumating can be risky for tortoises under two years of age. Never allow a sick, injured, or underweight tortoise to brumate if he has not eaten well throughout the summer or is dehydrated. Nor one that has been treated the previous summer for respiratory infection such as URTD/RNS/URDS. While brumating, protect your sleeping tortoise from rodents, raccoons, and ants. They must be kept dry throughout brumation.

Resources: CTTC, tortoisetrust.org, tortoise.org, tortoise owner, thetortoiseshop.com