Hibernation

Autumn’s in the air with cooler temperatures, turning leaves, pumpkins, and the long awaited holidays on the horizon. Ahhhhh. But hold up…what tortoise owner doesn’t have some amount of anxiety contemplating how their tortoises will handle the chillier months of winter. Common concerns are:

Should they or shouldn’t they hibernate? Which ones do and which ones don’t? Will they be ok if they don’t hibernate?

Are they ok in the garage, a closet, or better off in the yard?

Why aren’t they going down when they usually do (November)?

Should I make sure they’re well fed and well hydrated before they hibernate?

How do I know when they’re ready to come out of hibernation (March)?

Well folks, sit back and enjoy reading what the experts say.

Hibernating your turtle or tortoise is not a perfect science, especially since we live in such a warm part of the country. The breeds of tortoises that do require hibernation do so for health reasons. Irregular hibernation will adversely affect the tortoises’ health and lifespan. Mediterranean breeds such as box turtles, water turtles, desert tortoises, Russians, Greeks, and Hermann’s are biologically set to hibernate from November thru March. It is unnatural for them to be awake and eating 365 days a year. Hibernation is an essential part of their life cycle. For the most part, tropical tortoises such as leopards, sulcatas, radiateds, and redfoots should not hibernate. As a general rule of thumb, Mediterranean tortoises do hibernate, and tropical species don’t hibernate.

Monitor your tortoise closely as Fall approaches. Usually starting in late September or early October, as the nights begin to cool into the 60s, you will notice your outdoor tortoise becoming less active and a decreasing appetite. At this time, stop feeding your tortoise supplemental produce such as kale, collard greens, lettuces, etc. A small amount of grass ingested before hibernation usually isn’t harmful, but a stomach full of food can be. Undigested foods left in the digestive tract will not be digested during hibernation and will rot. Before hibernation, it is essential to soak your tortoise often in a shallow soaking dish. This will help them to buildup water reserves and stimulate them to empty their bladder and bowels. Whenever possible, hibernating them outdoors naturally is recommended. Garages can be noisy, and closets are usually too warm. Tortoises will not hibernate unless the temperatures in the environment cue them to do so. When hibernation outside is not an option, as a last resort, place your tortoise inside a sturdy box and keep him in a quiet part of the house or garage that stays between 40F-55F degrees. If it is much warmer, your tortoise may not be able to hibernate properly and could become ill. If it drops much below 40 degrees, your tortoise runs the risk of damage from the cold temperatures.

A hibernating tortoise should be checked periodically. A sleeping tortoise will usually respond if its foot is touched. If the tortoise should waken during a mid-winter warm spell, water may be offered, but DO NOT feed. As the weather cools again, encourage the tortoise to return to sleep. When the days begin to warm, the tortoise will become active in its storage box around March or April. At this time, a warm bath should be given, and the tortoise will often take a long steady drink. Now it’s time to put him in his outside habitat. Within a week or two, he should resume his normal eating, exercising, and basking activity. You cannot trick Mother Nature without consequences. If your Mediterranean tortoise is awake every winter, the increased food intake can lead to abnormal growth and, in turn, cause Metabolic Bone Disease, lumpy shells, and sometimes even kidney and bladder stones.

The positives of hibernation far out-weigh the negatives!

BE AWARE….Hibernating can be risky for tortoises under two years of age. Never allow a sick, injured, or underweight tortoise to hibernate if he has not eaten well throughout the summer or is dehydrated. Nor one that has been treated the previous summer for respiratory infection such as URTD/RNS/URDS. While hibernating, protect your sleeping tortoise from rodents, raccoons, and ants. They must be kept dry throughout hibernation.

Resources: CTTC, tortoisetrust.org, tortoise.org, tortoise owner, thetortoiseshop.com