Red Foot Tortoise Care Information

The red-footed tortoise is found throughout South America from Panama to Argentina and on the Caribbean islands of Trinidad and Barbados. 

They live in dry and wet forests areas, grasslands and the savanna. These long-lived tortoises (50 + years) have bright red, yellow or orange patches on their legs, tail and head. Their skin is mostly b

The red-footed tortoise is found throughout South America from Panama to Argentina and on the Caribbean islands of Trinidad and Barbados. 

They live in dry and wet forests areas, grasslands and the savanna. These long-lived tortoises (50 + years) have bright red, yellow or orange patches on their legs, tail and head. Their skin is mostly black with shells being typically black, gray or brown. Young tortoises have small distinct areas of yellow or tan coloring surrounding or covering each scute. Bright red marks may appear on the head. 

Adult red-footed tortoises will reach 10 to 16 inches and weigh up to 30 lbs. Sizes can vary by regions and gender. Males are, overall, slightly larger than the female. **This tortoise species does not hibernate.

Redfoot's love to bask in the warm morning sun for about an hour or so and then set out to find their morning meal.

 Red-footed tortoises are considered omnivores since they will eat small amounts of animal matter such as snails, slugs and bugs. Other food sources can come from leaves, grasses, fungi, fruits and flowers. The occasional har

Redfoot's love to bask in the warm morning sun for about an hour or so and then set out to find their morning meal.

 Red-footed tortoises are considered omnivores since they will eat small amounts of animal matter such as snails, slugs and bugs. Other food sources can come from leaves, grasses, fungi, fruits and flowers. The occasional hard boiled egg (shell and all) is a good protein option. The ratio for a well-balanced red-footed tortoise diet is 60 percent dark leafy

greens and grasses, 15 percent vegetables, 15 percent fruit, and 10 percent tortoise pellets or animal protein. 

These tortoises tolerate fruit better than many other tortoise species. Different vegetables and fruits that are good to feed regularly include: carrots, parsnips, sweet potato, papaya, figs, melons, dandelion greens, endive, mustard greens and escarole.

Mazuri pellets which are enriched with vitamins and minerals, can and should be offered about 3 times a week. Offer the amount of food they will eat within 15 to 30 minutes, then discard any leftovers. Avoid feeding your tortoise spinach, kale, and broccoli as they tend to bind the calcium in their  system. Your tortoise should have access to fresh water daily. A large shallow soaking dish is optimal.

Providing cuttlebones to your tortoise will assist with keeping their beak trimmed while adding calcium to their  system.

Don’t scrimp on the size of your tortoise enclosure. An ideal set-up for an adult or sub-adult Redfoot tortoise should be a sturdy, outdoor, escape-proof enclosure with a minimum area of 10’x20’. Their enclosure must be predator and dig proof although this species is not overly prone to digging out of enclosures. Solid wood

or brick barrie

Don’t scrimp on the size of your tortoise enclosure. An ideal set-up for an adult or sub-adult Redfoot tortoise should be a sturdy, outdoor, escape-proof enclosure with a minimum area of 10’x20’. Their enclosure must be predator and dig proof although this species is not overly prone to digging out of enclosures. Solid wood

or brick barriers 14”-18” high are very effective.

These tortoises grow fast in their first ten years of life. Enclosures 6’ wide by 6’ long and 12” high can be used to house a small tortoise comfortably but must be enlarged as the tortoise grows.

No tortoise over 2 years old should be kept in a terrarium 24/7. Redfoots are native to tropical areas and prefers a humid climate with lots of leaves and vegetation. Consider setting up a sprinkler or mister system to

increase the humidity if needed. This tortoise loves a muddy wallow or puddle for cooling off. You can sink a shallow (2”-3”) water dish into the ground but make

sure the tortoise is able to safely climb in and out of it.

If possible, provide a shady area densely planted with vegetation for a cool retreat. The walls of the enclosure should be about 16 inches high and even go a few inches below the ground to prevent your red-footed tortoise from digging and escaping.

Plant the outdoor enclosure with duel purpose edible shade options. To avoid or

minimize the need for store bought produce, consideration should be made to plant edibles within the tortoise’s realm. A variety of grasses, weeds, portulaca, red hibiscus, grape vines, bottle brush, mulberry tree, gazanias, plantain,

cosmos, and/or poppies to name a few, will encourage your pet to forage for their

food, and hopefully find some bugs and worms while they’re at it. A detailed tortoise friendly plant list is provided on this website under “Resources”.

Outdoor accommodations should have a shallow 2”-3” pond or soaking dish for

hydration and cleansing.

Rubbermaid containers and large storage boxes with a 14”x14” cut out opening are very popular outdoor housing options for tortoises of varying ages and sizes.

These containers are easy to clean, inexpensive to buy and can be modified to

suit the tortoise’s needs. The large hinged lids allow for observation, substrate maintenance, and easier

Rubbermaid containers and large storage boxes with a 14”x14” cut out opening are very popular outdoor housing options for tortoises of varying ages and sizes.

These containers are easy to clean, inexpensive to buy and can be modified to

suit the tortoise’s needs. The large hinged lids allow for observation, substrate maintenance, and easier cleaning.  Dogloos can also be used. Removing the

bottom allows the tortoise contact with the soil/substrate and provides you with a

great soaking dish! Keep in mind when looking for a tortoise house that they prefer a “tunnel effect” much more than a “cave effect” so don’t consider anything

too tall.

Spot clean and scoop out pet wastes regularly. Clean the water dish and provide fresh water daily.

Most tortoise owners use a substrate or bedding to line the bottom of the

terrarium or tortoise house. All tortoises need it for digging and hiding. Using cypress bark, orchid bark, or sphagnum moss as a substrate helps retain

humidity. Coconut coir is still debatable as it can integrate with their food and cause digestive problems. Paper o

Most tortoise owners use a substrate or bedding to line the bottom of the

terrarium or tortoise house. All tortoises need it for digging and hiding. Using cypress bark, orchid bark, or sphagnum moss as a substrate helps retain

humidity. Coconut coir is still debatable as it can integrate with their food and cause digestive problems. Paper or puppy pads will also work and are easy to

change out. Timothy and/or Bermuda hay is great for outdoor housing.

Change the substrate every one to two weeks to prevent mold and excessive

bacterial growth.

RESCUE disinfectant is used by most veterinarians and shelters and is very

effective in keeping these maladies at bay.

Red Foot tortoises thrive when their enclosures are kept between 74 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.  Day time temperatures can be maintained with basking lights, under tank heaters, heat cable, and/or heat tape.  All under tank heaters, heat tape, and heat cables should be very securely attached and regulated with a thermostat t

Red Foot tortoises thrive when their enclosures are kept between 74 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.  Day time temperatures can be maintained with basking lights, under tank heaters, heat cable, and/or heat tape.  All under tank heaters, heat tape, and heat cables should be very securely attached and regulated with a thermostat to prevent injuries such as burns. The Akoma Hound Heater shown on this website under “Shop” is effective, long lasting, and guaranteed not to burn your animal or the substrate.  Night time temperatures

should be monitored and maintained as needed and can be as low as 70

degrees.  Large pig warming blankets (plastic heat pads) are ideal for larger

enclosures but again, must be maintained on a thermostat.  Please note, this is NOT a species that hibernates and must be kept warm during the winter months!

These tortoises do well in 50-70% humidity.  For indoor habitats, a dig box of moist dirt can be offered and used to maintain a higher humidity area around

80% which allows the tortoise to regulate its own humidity requirements. This

species loves to sit in mud wallows and this helps simulate that behavior.  Great care must be taken that th

These tortoises do well in 50-70% humidity.  For indoor habitats, a dig box of moist dirt can be offered and used to maintain a higher humidity area around

80% which allows the tortoise to regulate its own humidity requirements. This

species loves to sit in mud wallows and this helps simulate that behavior.  Great care must be taken that the substrate in the box is kept clean and changed

weekly to prevent mold and excessive bacterial growth.  The substrate should always be moist enough to clump together but not moist enough that excess

water drains out when pressed together in an owner’s hands.  Misting, sprinklers, daily spraying, and showers help increase humidity as well indoors and

outdoors.

Red Foot tortoises, like all reptilian herbivores, require daily exposure to UVB lighting.  A Tropical 25 bulb (T25) from Zilla or a 5.0 ReptiSun bulb from ZooMed helps prevent and correct calcium deficiency issues by simulating the effects of natural sun light.  UVB lights should be on for the duration of the day light cycle

which should 

Red Foot tortoises, like all reptilian herbivores, require daily exposure to UVB lighting.  A Tropical 25 bulb (T25) from Zilla or a 5.0 ReptiSun bulb from ZooMed helps prevent and correct calcium deficiency issues by simulating the effects of natural sun light.  UVB lights should be on for the duration of the day light cycle

which should be roughly 12 hours a day.  All UVB bulbs must be no more than 24” away from the tortoise, directly overhead and no closer than 12”.  The bulb

should be replaced every 3-12 months even if it is still working to insure that the

proper amount of UVB radiation is being produced. UVB gages can be purchased.

No lighting is needed at night and should not be provided.  Tortoises are capable of seeing color as well as some infrared light.  The use of black lights, red lights, and blue lights although marketed for reptiles can be stressful to some tortoises and should be avoided.